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Mull Scenery and Landscapes Archive

Exploring Loch na Keal

Ask any visitor to Mull to recommend their favourite places to visit, and almost all of them will mention Loch na Keal at some point. This sea loch sweeps inland along the island’s west coast, with the Ardmeanach peninsula and Gribun cliffs hugging the south shore, and the coastline leading round past Killiechronan to the north. Inside the bay lies the uninhabited island of Eorsa, as well as the island of Inch Kenneth.

The winding road passes the Gribun cliffs on Loch na Keal’s south shore

One of the island’s most beautiful drives

Loch na Keal is easily accessible from most corners of Mull, lying only a couple of miles’ drive across the narrowest part of the island from Salen on the east coast, to the loch on the west. But arriving at Loch na Keal from the south offers perhaps the most spectacular introduction.

First follow the road through Mull’s mountains in Glen More, then turn off. The road follows the northern shore of Loch Scridain, before rising up over the pass at Tiroran and then descending dramatically with spectacular views across Loch na Keal and yet more outlying islands at sea.

As the road reaches sea level, the views remain impressive. Hills rise up to your right, with the sea to your left as the road winds past the Gribun cliffs with pretty dry stone walls.

White tailed sea eagle flying over the loch on the Isle of Mull
White tailed eagle in flight across the water on Loch na Keal

A wildlife hotspot for Mull’s ‘big five’

Of course, surrounded by pockets of woodland, sweeping hillsides, scree-covered peaks and a tidal sea loch, there’s far more to see than landscapes alone.

Mull’s big five could all be sighted in the local area, so keep your eyes to the skies for sea eagles, scan the hilltops for herds of deer, and choose a spot downwind with a view over the water in the hope of otters, seals and – for the very lucky – perhaps even dolphins too, who have been known to visit.

View from the shoreline by Kellan Mill Lodge, at Killiechronan on Loch na Keal

Explore Loch na Keal and beyond

At the head of the loch, there’s also the opportunity to experience the surrounds from the saddle, with Mull Pony Trekking based at Killiechronan.

Following the north shore round, the single track lane continues for miles following the length of the island’s west coast. Continue on and pass Loch Tuath, opening up views over the islands of Ulva, Gometra and the Treshnish Isles, and you can continue all the way to the white sands of Calgary Bay. A lovely place to pause and take in the west coast sunset, or enjoy an ice cream from the boat shack earlier in the day.

Balmeanach Farmhouse enjoys an unrivalled location on Loch na Keal with a little-known beach in walking distance

Cottages on Loch na Keal

Loch na Keal feels every bit like true Mull wilderness, with Ben More, the island’s only munro, accessible from the south shore. Cottages are few and far between in this rural corner of the coast, but we do have a couple that will draw you back time and time again.

For couples, Derryguaig Smiddy is the perfect choice, nestled in the foothills of Ben More on the sloping grassland above the loch. For wildlife lovers, Kellan Mill Lodge on Loch na Keal’s north shore is a firm favourite, and for families or large groups, the beautiful Balmeanach Farmhouse at the start of the Ardmeanach peninsula is guaranteed to impress.

A Dog Friendly Day Out on the Isle of Mull

As the ferry sails into Craignure from the west coast town of Oban, it’s time for your adventure on the island to begin! Just across from the pier, you’ll find the lovely little café Blethers. The perfect spot to warm up with a steaming mug of coffee, often with treats for your dog too! They’re also known for an excellent fish and chip supper, should your ferry happen to coincide with lunchtime…

A winter walk onto the hills on Mull

Dog friendly day out on the Ross of Mull

Rested and refuelled, it’s time to hit the road and enjoy a taste of what Mull has to offer! For those staying on the Ross of Mull, then a stop at Ardura Community Woodland on the way to your dog friendly cottage is a must. From the parking area just off the Glen More road, a quiet track ambles along the meandering River Lussa deep into the glen, with wonderful views to Mull’s mountains through the oak woodland, as well as a memorial to John Jones, beside Pedlars Pool.

Follow the course of the River Lussa along the path through the Ardura Community Forest

Returning to the car, there are yet more views to soak up as you pass through the glen with steep hills rising to either side. As you drop down towards Pennyghael and Loch Scridain opens up before you, Ben More will tower to your right, and you find yourselves on the Ross.

Let your four-legged-friends stretch their legs on Ardalanish beach

If time allows, continue on before heading to your dog friendly holiday cottage and sample your first of many beautiful beaches. The fine sands of Uisken and Ardalanish will all be wonderful sights to start your holiday. Or, for those who venture as far as Fidden, there’s a taste of more to come with the outlying islands of Iona and Erraid in view too, both of which make excellent dog friendly days out during your holiday on Mull, with stunning scenic walks and coastline.

Refreshed by the sea breeze and salty air, wipe off those muddy paws and sink into the warm welcome of your dog friendly holiday cottage. A call before your arrival to the Lochbuie Larder comes highly recommended, meaning you can tuck into locally sourced, homemade ready meals for your first night on the island. The Argyll Arms pub in Bunessan will also be a welcome visit during your stay, where your four-legged-friends will feel at home too.

Exploring Traigh na Cille beach in north west Mull

Dog friendly day out in North Mull

For those staying in the island’s north, enjoy the scenic drive up along the edge of Salen Bay, stopping to see the iconic shipwrecks and the seals so often on the skerries. Just before the stone bridge with a left hand turn to Dervaig, make time for the first of many walks on the island as you follow the lane along the Aros river estuary to the ruins of the 16th century Aros Castle. This makes a great short walk with lots of birdlife to see to stretch your legs after the ferry.

One of several dog friendly walks around Aros Park, near Tobermory, which follows the shore of the lochan

Back in the car, continue up the east coast with great views of the Sound of Mull as you go. Then, as you near Tobermory, make a right turn and follow the rhododendron-lined driveway down to Aros Park. Here, a dog friendly wonderland of trails awaits, following the course of waterfalls, circuiting the lochan or hugging the coast all the way to Tobermory’s harbourfront. Pick any one of them or try them all – they’re sure to be a favourite with four-legged-friends.

Enjoy dinner in one of several pet friendly pubs on Tobermory’s harbourfront

As you arrive at your dog friendly holiday cottage on Mull, it’s time to pull off your boots, wipe off their paws and settle in for a relaxing stay. And if you fancy a night off cooking, you’re in luck, as many of North Mull’s cafes and restaurants are dog friendly. They’ll be all too happy to curl up beside the fire in the Mishnish pub, or to join you for dinner at MacGochans at the end of the harbour.

Book your pet friendly cottage for a holiday on Mull.

Cottages for Adventure Seekers

In the past 12 months, we’ve become better than ever at exploring the great outdoors that lies on our doorstep. As part of that, many of us have found new passions for outdoor pursuits, whether taking on testing hills or taking to the water for a bracing wild swim. With that in mind, we’ve compiled our pick of the best Mull cottages for adventure seekers, whatever pursuit most appeals to you…

The garden gate at Sands Cottage in Calgary

Cottages for wild swimming

Calgary’s sheltered horseshoe bay and glistening clear waters make a tempting case for braving the bracing temperatures and taking a wild swim. Where better to base yourselves, then, than Sands Cottage and Calgary Bay Cottage, where you can dash back up the beach and straight in the door to warm beside the fire afterwards. Bliss!

Derryguaig Smiddy’s fantastic location on the slopes towards Ben More

Cottages for hill walking

Tucked into the foothills of Ben More, Derryguaig Smiddy offers a prime position for those hoping to summit Mull’s only munro during their stay. There are plenty more interesting hills to tackle in the area too, from the challenging Ben Fhada to the difficult alternative ascent of Ben More via the A’Chioch Ridge.

Venturing south, Dobhran Croft promises some excellent hills close by too at Lochbuie. Ben Buie is, of course, a must. But with the remote and dramatic coastline towards both Laggan and Carsaig, and the hills of Craig Ben to discover, there’s plenty to entertain those who like to head off the beaten track.

Direct access to the shore from the garden at The Old Church

Cottages for kayaking

With Loch Scridain at the bottom of the garden, The Old Church has long been popular with guests hoping to enjoy Mull from the water during their stay. Launch your kayak from the rocky shoreline and get a new perspective of the beauties of the Ross of Mull coastline.

View to Salen Bay from the balcony at Scots Cottage

Cottages for paddle boarding

With the tranquil waters of Salen Bay (and, conveniently, paddle board hire available in the village too), Scots Cottage is the perfect choice for those who wish to dip their toes in the adventurous side of Mull, all with a welcoming and modern homestay to return to.

The River Ba and surrounding hills of Mull’s mountainous interior

Cottages for biking

Some of Mull’s most dramatic scenery and terrain lies deep in the heart of the island in a little-visited area called Glen Cannel. To get here, one must venture along the length of Loch Ba and then deep into the glen, surrounded by Mull’s mountain country on all sides. A fantastic cycle in wild surrounds, with a good chance of being joined by a soaring eagle or quartering hen harrier as you go. Macquarie House affords easy access to this wonderful part of Mull.

Geocaching on Mull: Five to Find

Think of it as a treasure hunt that every generation can enjoy. Geoacaching on Mull is a great way to find inspiration for walks to try, as you set off on new routes with a mission in mind: finding the cache! It might be hidden beneath a rock, tucked inside a tree stump or wedged within an old stone wall, or it may be stowed somewhere else entirely!

Geocaching on Mull will cultivate your curiosity as you explore new corners of the island that you might not have visited before. So, how can you get involved and where should you begin?

First, you’ll need to prepare your treasure hunting tools – that means having a GPS device, or a geocaching app downloaded to your phone to guide you once out hunting. You can also join geocaching.com, which is a great place to find cache coordinates and record your progress as you go.

Here are some of our favourite geocaching sites to discover on Mull:

Treshnish whisky cave

1 The whisky cave at Treshnish

One of Mull’s best walks in its own right, you’ll pass through wildflower meadows and along dramatic coastline where the Treshnish Isles appear impossibly close. If you can tear your eyes away from the stunning scenery, then there are a number of caches to search for here, including in the whisky cave.

Standing stones at Glengorm

2 The standing stones at Glengorm

After setting your coordinates and sussing out the location of this cache, it’s only a short walk through stunning coastal scenery, with great views of Glengorm Castle and often passing Highland coos, to reach the wonderful café at Glengorm. Don’t miss the hearty soups, delicious burgers made with Glengorm beef and the mouth-watering array of cakes.

Woodland walk in Salen

3 Salen Woods

A lovely circular walk that’s popular with locals climbs up through woodland, where at the high point fantastic views open up across to the Sound of Mull. Add a sense of adventure to this well-trodden footpath by finding the coordinates that conceal the cache.

Eas-Fors-waterfall
Guest image by Ben Ferguson – please take care around the waterfall and keep well back from the edge!

4 Eas Fors

Over on the island’s remote west coast, Eas Fors waterfall cascades down the hillside before plunging into the sea loch below. A stunning view to enjoy as you search for the cache located in the surrounding area close by. If you choose to venture close to the waterfall, please take great care around the slippery rocks and keep well clear of the drops and away from the edge.

Rubh nan Gall Tobermory lighthouse

5 Rubh nan Gall Lighthouse

A wonderful there-and-back walk from the harbourfront in Tobermory, begin at the far end of the Main Street by the CalMac pier. Follow the footpath through coastal woodland to reach the beautiful lighthouse. There’s a lovely picnic bench and viewpoint along this path that makes a great place for a picnic after finding the cache.

As with all walks on Mull, be sure to choose routes that suit your ability and head out prepared. We hope we’ve inspired you to try geocaching on Mull and discover more of the island on foot.

Fishing on Mull: 5 Expert Tips Plus Where to Stay

Fishing on Mull has long been a draw for visitors to the island. It’s a traditional way of life that has deep island roots, with many of the oldest buildings in Tobermory linked to fishing and the associated commerce that Tobermory’s sheltered harbour facilitated. Visit the harbourfront today and you’ll still find the fisherman’s pier busy with boats as catches are unloaded.

But of course, fishing on Mull isn’t limited to what you can find at sea. The island has some fine river and loch fishing to enjoy too. Guy Bolton is a local expert, providing a guiding service for keen anglers visiting Mull, and in this article he shares five top tips to enjoy the bounty Mull has to offer.

Expert tips for fishing on Mull

1. Dress for the occasion

Make sure you have the right foot wear and clothing for a days’ fishing on Mull, the weather here is very changeable and making sure you are kitted out for the day helps to ensure that you stay warm and dry and you are far more likely then to enjoy your day out.

2. Movement is key

Once you have chose a loch or river to fish, try not to get stuck in the same spot all the day. Move around, up and down the bank in different directions. Trout can be quite nomadic, moving around the loch looking for their next meal. It can be easy to spook them in these remote hill lochs, so stealth and keeping trying different places can help hugely.

3. Flies and lures

Keep changing them don’t thrash away for hours if the fly or lure isn’t working. Keep trying different things with the hope that you will present the fish with something it simply can’t resist.

4. Safe hands

When handling fish you have caught look after them, especially if you are intending returning them to the water. Try to keep them as wet as possible. If the slimy coating of the fish gets damaged or rubbed off too much, it leaves the fish susceptible to infection and disease.

5. Plan ahead

Let people know where you are thinking of going and give them a vague idea of when you are expecting to return home. This way if anything were to happen to you or someone in your party, for example a fall, then help will never be too far away.

Best cottages for fishing on Mull

Armed with the expert advice of Guy Bolton, you’ll soon be on your way to fishing success. And you can even enjoy it from the luxury of your own cottage, with these three perfect properties for fishing on Mull.

The Steading (sleeps 4) on Loch Assapol

The Steading, Loch Assapol

Venture straight to the loch shore from the front door of The Steading and enjoy some fine freshwater loch fishing on Loch Assapol. Then it’s only a short walk home with your catch to cook up a storm in the beautiful dining kitchen, complete with vaulted ceilings and charming beams. A great choice for all the family, with excellent walking, beautiful beaches and abundant wildlife in the area too.

Craig Ben Lodge (sleeps 10, pet friendly) on Loch Uisg

Craig Ben Lodge, Loch Uisg

Treat yourselves to a true Highland escape with a stay at Craig Ben Lodge, complete with a turret and exceptional loch views. The house affords easy access to the sea at Lochbuie and Loch Spelve, with use of a boat available on Loch Uisg too.

Macquarie House (sleeps 9-10, pet friendly) on Loch Ba

Macquarie House, Loch Ba

A stone’s throw from the dramatic freshwater loch, Loch Ba, which leads into Mull’s mountainous interior, Macquarie House is an angler’s delight, with a boat available to hire, permits available for river fishing on the River Ba, and even the chance to catch brown trout on a hill loch nearby. Throw in the close proximity of Loch na Keal for sea fishing, and a week simply won’t feel long enough.

Discover more inspiration for things to do on Mull and make your holiday truly memorable.

Wildlife Boat Trips from the Isle of Mull

It’s been an amazing summer for wildlife boat trips from the Isle of Mull, with regular appearances of dolphins in their droves, sightings of minke whales and harbour porpoise, and even in the last few weeks views of John Coe and Aquarius, members of the west coast population of killer whales!

Here, we catch up with Colin from Turus Mara to get the inside scoop:

Dolphin leaping off the Isle of Mull

Dolphins

It has been a really great summer for wildlife out on Staffa and the Treshnish Isles and surrounds, particularly for common dolphins with weeks of virtually daily sightings. ‘Dolphin soup’ has been the somewhat unpalatable epithet in use due to the sheer numbers of ‘Delphinus delphis’ in our plying area!

If the dolphins are feeding or otherwise engaged we just sit back and watch them going about their business – but often they choose to come to us – to play on the bow or just to spin around the boat clicking and whistling to the delight of our passengers.

Minke whales

It is rarer that a minke whale will come and associate with the boat – and these occasions can be intimate and almost emotional. One day this year all our passengers except a mother and son had gone ashore. We took the two ‘stayaboards’ to watch a juvenile minke nearby and it decided we required to be closely inspected.

We were stopped in the water and the young whale swam round and round the boat, also making several passes underneath, clearly visible in the calm water – even turning on its side to check us out. It really is incredible to look directly in the eye of a minke whale; a connection that few ever have the chance to feel – a privilege really.

Seal on off shore skerrie Isle of Mull

Staffa and the Treshnish Isles

September and October is a great time for a boat trip to Staffa and Fingal’s Cave, avoiding the busier months of summer.

The Treshnish Isles also have plenty to offer, with an influx of huge numbers of Atlantic Grey Seals. Over 1200 pups are born around the coast each year.

Our vessels depart from Ulva Ferry on the west side of Mull where there is ample parking. All our tours take place in the Loch na Keal National Scenic Area, with views of Ben More, Mull’s only munro (a mountain over three thousand feet), the cliffs of Gribun and Ardmeanach.

Wildlife boat trip from the Isle of Mull
Outlying island off the Isle of Mull with puffins

Wildlife boat trips from the Isle of Mull

Turus Mara boat trips cruise by Ulva, Gometra, Little Colonsay and Inch Kenneth – all islands with differing topography and fascinating stories in their own right. We endeavour to engage, educate and inform on topics as diverse as geology, history, nature and culture, all part of the magic of wildlife boat trips from the Isle of Mull.

Discover more about the island’s amazing wildlife, about our fascinating outlying islands, and the adventures you can enjoy when you stay with us.

Kayaking and Paddle Boarding on the Isle of Mull

Kayaking and paddle boarding on the Isle of Mull have become ever more popular as visitors look to soak up the scenery and sea surrounding the island.

Kayaking with Salen Bay Hire

A peaceful paddle in a kayak delivers you to hard-to-reach coves, and perhaps even brings an encounter with a seal or two. Paddle boarding is also a fun choice, and a great way to watch the sunset from a sheltered bay.

Find out how you could enjoy kayaking and paddle boarding on the Isle of Mull, with options in the north, east and south west for you.

Plan a family holiday on Mull that everyone will enjoy with these great tips for things to do, places to go and the best holiday homes to stay in.
Paddle board around Tobermory’s enchanting bay

Paddle boarding in Tobermory Bay

Yachts and fishing boats are a familiar sight in Tobermory’s iconic harbour, as well as the odd inquisitive seal or two. But now you can take to the water in an entirely new way, by enjoying a paddle boarding experience.

Choose between a one to three hour hire period and soak up the views, scenery and sights of the island’s harbour town from the water with Tobermory Paddle Hire.

Paddle boarding at sunset with Salen Bay Hire
Kayaking with Salen Bay Hire

Paddle boarding and kayaking in Salen Bay

Based in picturesque Salen Bay on the island’s east coast, Salen Bay Hire offer single and double kayak hire as well as paddle boards. Every hire comes with a life jacket and paddle, so it’s just a wetsuit to pack with you.

Sheltered from the wind, this is a lovely spot to spend an hour or two paddling and exploring. Enjoy a unique view of the Salen shipwrecks, so often photographed from the road but rarely viewed from across the water.

Fidden beach on the Ross of Mull

Sailing and kayaking on the Ross of Mull

If you’re staying on the Ross of Mull, then you needn’t miss out on the action. In addition to the treasure trove of sheltered coves for wild swimming on Mull, you can take to the water in a sea kayak with Bendoran Watersports. Choose between a half or full day on the water with a guide, or hire a kayak or dingie if you have suitable experience.

Four Fantastic All-Day Walks on the Isle of Mull

Reconnecting with nature, recharging your batteries and exploring Mull’s most beautiful corners – this is the ambition of many who visit the island, and by simply carving a day out of your itinerary to dedicate to an all-day walk on the Isle of Mull, you can do exactly that.

Here are four ideas to get you started, with one for each corner of the island. Choose one or explore them all – the island is your oyster, enjoy it!

The view as you pass through the wildflower meadow, arriving at the dramatic coastal track.
The ‘false’ beach, with excellent views across to the Treshnish Isles to the west.

North Mull: The Treshnish Headland

This is a great choice for an all-day walk on the Isle of Mull that eases you in gently and rewards you with spectacular views. Beginning from the island’s west coast at the start of the Treshnish headland, just south of Calgary, a track takes you past Treshnish Farm and on towards the Coronation Meadow, where wild orchids and other native flowers grow in the breeze of the Atlantic.

Rounding the coast with views to the Treshnish Isles, you’ll pass over the ‘false’ beach – now a flat, grassy swathe, this was once at sea level! From here, the trail continues past the ruined village at Crackaig, before re-joining the single-track road to return to your starting point.

Rounding the headland as you make your way back towards Reudle.
Ruined villages found along the Treshnish walk, telling of more populous times before the Highland Clearances.

East Mull: Glenforsa and Ben Talaidh

Ben Talaidh in the distance, seen from Glenforsa with its resident Highland cows.
The propellor of the Dakota plane crash of 1945, which struck the mountain.
On your return, you can take an alternative route along the River Forsa.

Standing at almost 750m high, Ben Talaidh towers at the head of Glenforsa, and its iconic, conical peak can be seen from as far away as Tobermory in the island’s north east.

Climbing this Graham comes not only with fantastic scenery and views from the top though, as having followed the river Forsa through the farmed glen below, you’ll ascend past a bothy to the wreckage of a Dakota plane, which crashed into the mountain in 1945.

The summit affords excellent views across the island’s mountainous interior, west towards Loch Ba and Ben More, and east back to the Sound of Mull and mainland Scotland.

As you make your way through the glen, pass the MBA bothy at Tomsleibhe.
A wintry ascent of Ben Talaidh, with spectacular views to Mull’s mountainous interior.

South Mull: Tireregan Nature Reserve

The reward for your efforts is this remote and staggeringly beautiful stretch of coast.
The exquisite white sands of Traigh Gheal, so remote you’ll almost certainly be the only people there.

It always pays to be prepared when you head out walking on the Isle of Mull, but no where is this truer than of the Tireregan Nature Reserve. Although not featuring big ascents, the terrain here is challenging and you’ll navigate thick brush, woodland, bog and bracken as you make for the coast. For this reason, it’s a corner of Mull that often goes unexplored, feeling truly remote and untouched.

The reward for your efforts? A taste of Mull’s true wilderness, a wildlife haven, and one of the most unspoilt and beautiful beaches on the island – Traigh Gheal.

Bog, brush and bracken make up much of the route, best suited to experienced walkers.
Fantastic views as you cross challenging terrain in the Tireregan Nature Reserve.

West Mull: Ardmeanach and The Burg

The northern side of the Ardmeanach peninsula, beyond Balmeanach.
The Ardmeanach peninsula, looking out towards Burg, where the route to the fossil tree leads.

Another of Mull’s wildernesses, the Ardmeanach peninsula extends between Loch Scridain and Loch na Keal on the island’s south west coast. From the Scenic Route to Salen heading north, turn off towards Tiroran just after the small settlement of Kilfinichen and the adventure begins. It’s best to check the tides in advance, as the Fossil Tree at the end of the trail requires a low tide.

As you head west along the peninsula, you’ll pass a memorial cairn and the remains of Dun Bhuirg, affording historical interest along the way. Tracing the coastline, the views are rugged and spectacular. The grand finale of this walk is the Fossil Tree, cast in basalt lava and reached by an equally dramatic ladder bolted to the rocks! The return route retraces your steps, with excellent opportunity to enjoy the local wildlife as you go.

Descend the metal ladder when the tide is out to marvel at the geology and fossil tree.
Stunning rock formations and fossils are striking features on this remote part of the coast.

Find more inspiration for short to all-day walks on the Isle of Mull in our guide, complete with OS maps, route descriptions and photos.

Multi-tiered waterfall on the Ardmeanach peninsula

Exploring one of Mull’s most remote corners: Laggan Deer Forest

The following photographic blog covers one of the Isle of Mull’s more remote and challenging areas, a lack of paths, difficulty navigating and tough terrain make this a serious expedition for the experienced only. This is not a suggested route!

Situated in the Isle of Mull’s south east the Laggan Deer Forest lies to the south west of Croggan on an area of land that is connected to the rest of Mull by two narrow isthmuses, one at Kinlochspelve, another at Lochbuie.

A glance at the map reveals that this is an area with interesting geology, history and some intriguing place names, from Glen Libidil, to Lord Lovat’s Cave.

Our day began with a spectacular sunrise over Loch Spelve, a large sea loch with a narrow opening to the Firth of Lorne at Croggan.

Starting our walk at Kinlochspelve by climbing the rugged hills via Gleann Bheag we began descending into Glen Libidil. There are many signs of former settlements on the hills here, thought to vary in age from the neolithic, to the medieval times up until recent history.

Glen Libidil means deep valley, or more accurately dale, an apt description that perfectly describes the lay of the land. There are areas of interest here for geology fans, including exposed Jurassic rocks and volcanic formations.

Remains of a building with a sunlit Ben Buie in the distance
Looking down into Glen Libidil

Reaching the coast at Glen Libidil there are excellent views over Argyll’s southern islands, including Scarba, Jura, Islay and closer to Mull the long chain of the Garvallachs. Winter gales had washed large quantities of kelp ashore, which was much appreciated by both the red deer and wild goats we saw dining in the area!

The view from the beach at Glen Libidil

From here we followed the coastline heading south east toward Frank Lockwood’s island. The terrain here is beautiful, a mixture of cliffs, gnarled oak trees, waterfalls and raised beaches. The sea views are superb and an eye should be kept open for passing porpoise and otters. To the skies there are common sighting of eagles and the majestic red deer appear to thrive in the area, perhaps justifying the name Laggan Deer Forest.

Also of note along this section of coast are the remains of a shipwreck most probably the RFA Maine a vessel that was being used as a hospital ship when it was wrecked ashore on 21 June 1914 in dense fog whilst sailing toward Oban. The ship struck Frank Lockwood’s island, however the remains of the vessel have now washed up over a very wide area.

Leaving the pebble beach at Glen Libidil
Remains of an atlantic Oak tree
Shipwreck remains are found along the coastline
The pebble beach at Uirigh na Salach, a marker of the start of some difficult coastal terrain

We paused for snacks and coffee at the beautiful pebble beach below Uirigh na Salach past which point we found the difficulty of the coastal terrain led us to backtracking to climb (some very steep ground!) uphill before descending again towards the bay of Port Ohirnie, one of the few sizeable bays along this rugged stretch of coastline and a listed anchorage for boats.

Port Ohirinie has an area of gently sloping ground with mature oak and ash trees along the coast. The beautiful Allt Ohirnie and Allt Bealach Luirginn combine to form a small river which flows into the bay. The remains of a small bothy or possible black house sit to the eastern side of the bay.

Looking back to the coast over some very steep terrain
Port Ohirnie and the view to the east (note the blowhole along the coast)

Continuing on we rounded Rubha nam Fear before the views over Frank Lockwood’s island open up. Frank Lockwood was a Liberal MP of the city of York and was said to be fond of visiting the island from Lochbuie in a rowing boat. The low lying island is host to a variety of birds and must have stunning views back towards Mull’s coast, which is especially rugged and dramatic in this area.

Frank Lockwood’s island

From here onward the terrain again becomes increasingly difficult. passing between huge cliffs and steep boulder and scree fields we headed north aiming for Rubha na Faolinn with plans for exploring some of the incredible geology and features along the way.

The cliffs of An Garradh reach 300m above sea level
Traversing below the cliffs
Shipwreck remains on the coast
From sea level to 270m near Bealach Luirginn

As we neared Lord Lovat’s bay we were optimistic that we may be able to explore Lord Lovat’s Cave. During the 1745 Jacobite rebellion Lord Lovat hid here in a cave with a chamber of around fifty feet in length. Lovat was a Jacobite and clan chief, known to switch allegiances at points he was eventually defeated at the Battle of Culloden and beheaded. During his time int he cave he was helped by the owners of Lochbuie House who supplied with with provisions.

Unfortunately a landslide of rocks has blocked the entrance to the cave, so our exploring was limited! However the area does still has a special feel to it if you are feeling imaginative!

Looking over Lord Lovat’s Bay
The blocked entrance to Lord Lovat’s Cave
Sunset over Laggan and Lochbuie

Our route continued around the coast towards the stunning Laggan and Lochbuie, one of Mull’s most picturesque areas to visit. We opted to explore some of the hill country here too, before finishing our day with assistance of head torches!

If you would like to plan your next day out on the island then you may be interested in our series of more conventional walking routes, all detailed with Ordnance survey maps with routes marked on and photographs of the terrain: Isle of Mull Walking Guide

Outdoor Activities on Mull to Enjoy in Winter

Winter on a Hebridean island brings many things to mind – dramatic tides rolling onto exposed beaches, cosy nights beside the wood burning stove and wrapping up warm to watch for the Northern Lights. Whether your stay is filled with crisp winter sunshine or atmospheric seasonal storms, here are a few outdoor activities on Mull to enjoy in the quiet winter months.

northern lights over mull

1 Enjoy Stargazing

The long dark nights that cloak the Hebrides during the winter months offer a superb opportunity for budding astronomers and stargazers alike. Head out on a clear night and see what you can spot.

For the luckiest, cast your gaze northwards and you may even see the dancing colours of the Northern Lights, which are spotted here throughout the winter months when the solar energy is right. Find out more about stargazing on Mull.

2 Fossil Hunting

Not to collect and take home, but certainly to marvel at. On a bright, calm day, there are two paths to pick from.

For the adventurous, the dramatic route from Tiroran to the Fossil Tree (it’s known as the wilderness peninsula for a reason!) at low tide will take your breath away.

For an easier going amble, the circular walk at Ardtun on the Ross of Mull enables you to enjoy the stunning coastal scenery as you scout out fossil leaf beds, which once stood beside a prehistoric lake!

Silhouette of a red deer stag roaring at sunset on the Isle of Mull

3 Watch for Wildlife

During the winter months, the red deer descend from their home ranges in the hills and are often seen at lower levels, making winter an ideal time to see them up close.

Much of the island’s wildlife remains with us through the winter – the eagles, otters, seals and more call Mull home year-round. And then there are the seasonal visitors, for whom winter signals their season of return – keep an eye out for the rare Great Northern Diver among others.

4 Go Fishing

At this time of year, fisherman’s huts come in especially handy to shelter from the weather if needed. Tackle and Books in Tobermory are the people to ask to secure your permits to fish, with the Mishnish Lochs a pretty spot with shelter if you need it, or the Aros Park lochan, where you can take cover beneath the trees.

Duart Castle standing proudly on an outcrop in south east Mull, seen from the ferry as it approaches Craignure

5 Bag Castles

Make your first Duart Castle – while it closes its doors to visitors over the winter months, you’ll enjoy magnificent views of the castle as you approach Mull on the Oban to Craignure ferry.

From here, several beautiful castles await, some ornate and privately owned, like Glengorm, which can be seen from a distance on the walk to the Bathing Pools, or Torosay Castle, which peeks through the trees on a coastal walk from Craignure.

Others act as relics of the past, like the 16th century Aros Castle, where ruins remain statuesque on the hilltop beside Salen Bay and the Aros estuary. Moy Castle, visited by a beautiful coastal path from Lochbuie, is another castle majestic in its age and well worth the walk to.

6 Step Back in Time

Follow coastal paths to ruined villages that serve as a poignant reminder of the Highland Clearances island-wide. From the Ross of Mull, the path to Shiaba is a stunning, windswept coastal walk with pretty beaches to pass by.

Further north, walk the Treshnish Headland for more spectacular sea views, passing the ruined village of Crackaig as you go. From Tobermory, the walk to Ardmore Point is only a few minutes’ drive, where again, ruined cottages pay testament to times past.

Feeling inspired by these winter activities on Mull? Visit the island at its quietest and enjoy an excellent value winter break – choose from one of our cosy cottages available this winter.