When you arrive in Oban, ready to make the ferry crossing to Mull, you’re bound to hear the west coast town referred to as the ‘Gateway to the Isles’. But Oban isn’t the only place from which you can explore the surrounding Scottish islands. It’s possible to visit several from Mull too. Here’s how to do it.

The view from the nearby island of Ulva looking back across to Mull

Iona

Perhaps the most famous of Scottish islands surrounding Mull, Iona has attracted visitors for centuries. In fact, over a thousand years ago in 563AD, St Columba arrived, bringing with him Christian teachings that are still felt on the island to this day.

Iona Abbey dates from the Middle Ages. It is one of the most popular attractions to visit, alongside the 13^th-century nunnery and St Oran’s Chapel.

But that’s not all there is to explore on Iona. Three miles long, this wee island is a natural treasure trove waiting for you to discover it. Wildlife enthusiasts flock to hear the elusive corncrakes, while walkers make their way to the island’s highest point, Dun I, or to the beautiful white sand beaches, like the Bay at the Back of the Ocean.

You’ll find Iona just off the south-western tip of Mull. The passenger ferry from Fionnphort takes as little as 15 minutes.

Discover the quaint cottages and charming coastline of Iona

Ulva

Ulva is one of the most accessible of the Scottish islands surrounding Mull. A boat will take you across from the aptly named Ulva Ferry on Mull’s west coast on weekdays, and Sundays between June and August too.

Ulva is a nature-lover’s paradise, with no end of waymarked trails that allow you to explore the island’s diverse scenery. There are rocky shorelines, picturesque woodlands and open countryside to discover. With this range of habitats comes an amazing array of species, with unusual wildflowers to spot, as well as birdlife and mammals.

Much like Iona, Ulva has its own interesting history. Visiting Sheila’s Cottage is a great way to experience what island life was like in the 20^th century, before walking to ruined buildings or Livingstone’s Cave.

Hop across to Ulva and enjoy woodland walks

Staffa

Many visitors to Mull embark on one of the many boat trips to Staffa for the day. Staffa’s claim to fame is for inspiring the musician Mendelssohn with the acoustics in Fingal’s Cave.

But Staffa is iconic in its own right, with towering basalt columns lapped by foaming blue waters. In the summer months, the puffins arrive, attracting many visitors to the island. But whatever time you choose to visit, you’ll have the chance to spot sea birds. You can also look out for marine species, like dolphins and porpoises, from the boat.

There are a variety of boat trips available to visit Staffa, departing from both Tobermory in the north and Fionnphort in the south. Find out more about boat trips on Mull.

Marvel at the magnificent basalt columns on Staffa

Treshnish Isles

From a vantage point on the north-west of Mull,you’ll spot the silhouette of the Treshnish Isles.

Much like Staffa, several boat trips enable visitors to access this archipelago of Scottish islands, with the opportunity to make landing. Tours typically depart from Tobermory because the islands lie off Mull’s north-western coast.

The Treshnish Isles are a haven for wildlife. Puffins nest here during the summer, before the grey seals have their pups in autumn.

Boat trips tend to land on the largest of the islands, Lunga. Once off the boat, you can cross the rocky beach to explore the island and see the puffins, taking care not to disturb any nests.

Meet puffins on the Treshnish Isles during the summer months

Erraid

Erraid lies just off the south-west coast of Mull and while it’s not well known, it is easy to reach if you time it right. Boats can anchor in Tinker’s Hole while visitors can cross over the tidal sandbar on foot when the tide allows.

Small but beautifully formed, visitors will be blown away by the views, from white sand beaches and pink granite outcrops, to the panorama back across to the Ross of Mull.

There are many walking trails that make exploring the island relatively simple. Just remember to check the tides and cross back before the waves cut you off!

The tidal Isle of Erraid lies off Mull’s south west coast

Gometra

One of the lesser known Scottish islands on Mull’s west coast is Gometra, perhaps because it is one of the trickiest to reach. But if you fancy an adventure, a few days on Gometra could make a unique extension to a week on Mull.

You reach Gometra by first taking the boat from Mull to Ulva, then walking a challenging eight miles over hills to reach the bridge to Gometra. The route is as rugged as the landscape and is best tackled only by experienced walkers.

This isolated isle is home to just a handful of islanders and runs off the electricity grid. It’s a true wilderness, with both the challenges and beauties that come with it. Few will discover Gometra first hand, making it a hidden gem for those who do tackle the journey.

The view to Gometra from Mull

Find out more about visiting Mull’s outlying islands and plan your next holiday with our helpful island guide.

The Isle of Mull scenery has to be one of the island’s biggest attractions. Mountains and glens, lochs and burns… This island packs a lot into its 338 square miles of space. Isle of Mull waterfalls are also in abundance and here we guide you to some of Mull’s most magical.

Aros Park, Tobermory

Aros Park is well worth a visit, with pathways through forest that offer fun for all the family. But the waterfalls here are spectacular too, surrounded by lush ferns, trees and vegetation. If you’ve been before, visit in autumn when the leaves are a blaze of copper and red. It’ll feel like an entirely different experience again.

Eas Fors waterfall

Perhaps the most well know of all the Isle of Mull waterfalls is Eas Fors. Located on the west coast of Mull, not far from the famed Isle of Mull scenery of Laggan Bay, these falls are easily accessible from the road.

Guest image shared by Ben Ferguson

Flowing over three tiers, Eas Fors really is spectacular and a firm favourite with visitors and islanders alike. You can head up or down from the road to see each tier more closely, but take care over the rugged terrain and stay well clear of the drops.

Ben More pools

These Isle of Mull waterfalls have a character of their own, making them well worth the hike to get there. On the north-west side of Ben More, the Ben More pools burble across the landscape, meandering down smaller but more frequent rocky cascades. The water is magically clear and the falls frothy and soft – an amazing contrast to the mountains behind.

Eas Mor woodland waterfalls

Isle of Mull waterfalls are many and varied, especially after a spell of heavy rain. The fall along the Eas Mor burn has a beautiful, secluded woodland setting. The burn weaves through mossy banks and oak trees, trickling over a number of falls and passing through narrow dark gorges.

It’s an altogether gentler, more serene experience, but no less lovely for that. Complete the experience by following the burn to the end, where you’ll reach the sandy Port Donain beach.

Carsaig

After a nail-biting drive with a plummeting drop to your right as you approach Carsaig, you’ll round a tight stone-walled bend, plunge into dappled shade and be grabbed by the sound of water rushing down beside a red telephone box!  This is Eas na Dabhaich, a cascading burn the source of which is Loch Fraing on the hills above.  This source keeps to falls flowing in all but the driest of weather.

Ben More hills

If you’re looking for hidden gems on the island that most visitors have yet to discover, try the waterfalls that flow on the Loch na Keal side of the Ben More hills.  Here at Derryguaig the water cascades dramatically down a rock face into an immaculate blue pool. Flanked by stones and surrounded by deciduous trees, it could be paradise. This spot certainly gives the beauty of Skye’s fairy pools a run for their money.

Ardmeanach Peninsular

Isle of Mull scenery ranges from rugged moorland to verdant woodland and rocky outcrops, and it’s the latter you’ll find when the burn Allt Airigh nan Caisteal flows into a waterfall.

You might recognise this of all Isle of Mull waterfalls because it found fame during a storm here. The winds were so strong that the water was blown back up the falls – the video of this happening went viral and was featured on news outlets worldwide!  As of 2018 our facebook video has been viewed 2.8 million times!

Rubha Dubh

On the South coast of Mull between Carsaig and Lochbuie you’ll find a beautiful fall at Rubha Dubh, where a channel of water slides down between two steep rockfaces.  Cascading between columnar basalt down to the boulder shore below where a small pool supports some unique plant life.  The best bit is you can walk behind this fall and look out to sea at to the waves crashing on the shore!

Which are your favourite Isle of Mull waterfalls and why?

Get a new perspective on the Isle of Mull with these dizzy images!

The Isle of Mull has a well deserved reputation as a photographer’s paradise. Little wonder, then, that many locations have been the subject of visitors’ photos time and again.  We took to the skies to discover new perspectives of old favourite locations throughout the Isle of Mull and we hope you enjoy them too.

We are going to focus on the beauty of the locations and the circumstances and timing of the images, perhaps inspiring a visit and stay in one of our hand picked range of holiday cottages on Mull.

Ben More

It was one of those perfect sunny days towards the end of March.  A touch of warmth in the sunshine brings signs of spring to Mull, yet snows still clads the mountains and the days are just beginning to get lighter and longer.  We timed our climb of Ben More to coincide with sunset, which at this time of the year drops behind the Isle of Ulva from this location.  We took the circular route via Beinn Fhada and over the A’Cioch ridge before reaching the summit after dark and heading down the mountain to Dhiseig in the faint afterglow.  The filming was a success with only light wind over the ridge.  We’ve tackled this munro in the winter too – find out about our climb here.

Iona

During the work on our guide to Mull’s islands we of course included Iona.  Iona is a emerald gem of an isle with a important historical role that is matched by the richness of the fine machair grasslands, which back the white sandy beaches.  With a population of around 150 people, Iona has one village – Baile Mor – which you see as you approach on the ferry from Mull.  In this view you can see the row of traditional stone cottages, each with a seaward facing garden in front.

Knockvologan

There’s no doubt that some of Scotland’s best beaches are on the Isle of Mull.  Be it the famous Calgary beach in the north, or one of the hidden coves on Mull’s south coast, with more than 20 beaches to visit there is something for every occasion.  When working on our Isle of Mull beaches guide we visited one of the the more spectacular stretches of sand at Knockvologan.  It was a still, sunny day in February. At this time of year the sun sets behind the south-west tip of Iona.  The days are shorter and the low angle light provides perfect conditions for picking out the details in the landscape.  This view looking south toward the distant Torran Rocks give a great perspective over the broad sweep of white sands that form the beach.

Loch Uisg

In late May, the long days of early summer are well on the way. Mull’s landscape is mainly transformed into a rich verdant green.  At this time rhododendron flowers are in full bloom and nowhere is the display more impressive than along the shoreline of Loch Uisg.  The single track road to Lochbuie skirts the edge of the loch and the whole drive can resemble a giant natural garden at times!  This image is looking west along the line of the Great Glen Fault, which runs under this part of Mull.  The house is Craig Ben Lodge. It’s a beautiful property built in the Bryce Baronial style.

Traigh na Cille

Here we jump to early April on north Mull’s west coast and to the beach of Traigh na Cille at Kilninian.  This is one of north Mull’s larger beaches. It is well known for its dark sand sediments, which you can see in this image form a distinct linear banding as the tide rises and falls.  The name of beach means ‘beach of the cell’, as in a monastic cell. This is most likely a connection to the times of St. Columba on Iona and the growth in Christianity in western Scotland.  This view looks to the north past Torloisk and towards Treshnish.

Loch na Keal

On the first Sunday in June each year, the Isle of Mull Cycling Club organise and run the Isle of Mull Cyclesportive.  Here you can see Mull cycling club members making their way along the shore of Loch na Keal.  Pictured in late September, this photo is from a promotional video we made for the Sportive. It showcases the outstandingly beautiful route and explains how proceeds from entrance fees go towards good causes in the local community.

Iona Ferry, Fionnphort

This image looks over the Isle of Mull’s most westerly point near the village of Fionnphort on the Ross of Mull.  Taken near sunset on a late September evening, the picture shows the Iona Ferry heading to its overnight mooring in the Bull Hole. This is the name for the channel of water that is protected by the small island of Eilean Nam Ban.  The coastline here is made of a distinctive pink granite, which was at one time quarried and used as decorative stone in buildings throughout the world.

Eas Fors Waterfall

On the west coast of north Mull you will discover a landscape of distinct terraced strata. In fact, most of the geology of north Mull is comprised of these ‘steps’, caused by volcanic lava flows which set into visible layers.  Where burns and rivers flow down hill they become waterfalls as they pass these layers.  One of the most dramatic is Eas Fors, which cascades straight into the sea at Loch Tuath.  There is a parking area near these falls and a path explores the area – take care near the drop!

Port na Ba

Located on the Isle of Mull’s north coast, Port na Ba is a beach of fine white sands, aqua waters and views towards the isles of Rum, Eigg and Skye.  Perfect for a paddle or swim, this photo shows the gently sloping sands and clarity of the sea.  It’s a bird’s eye view that shows Mull’s coastline is beautiful from any angle!

River Lussa

Situated in Mull’s south east, the river Lussa is one of Mul’s larger water courses.  The catchment is in Mull’s mountainous interior and the river gains size from tributaries that join from the flanks of Creach Beinn.  After cascading through a series of pools and a small gorge, the river enters the native oak woodland visible in this springtime photo.  The image is taken from a vantage point just higher than the canopy of the trees, affording a view to the distant mountain Beinn Talaidh.

Beinn Fhada

Our final image in this collection shows a lone walker and dog crossing the long ridge of Beinn Fhada (702m) in the Isle of Mull’s interior.  Mull has a well deserved reputation as one of the best islands for walking and this image typifies the at times wild but always beautiful nature of the island in the winter months.

We hope these photos have inspired you to plan that next visit to the Isle of Mull and perhaps a relaxing break in one of our select range of quality holiday cottages.

Which of these snapshots of the Isle of Mull do you like best? Have you visited any of these scenic places?

Author looking over Loch na Keal near Kellan Mill Lodge

I was a latecomer to Mull. Shamefully late in fact. Having moved to Scotland in 2003 and consciously making the decision at that point to explore every corner of my adopted home, it was 12 long years before I set foot on the island. It wasn’t until my second visit that I experienced autumn on Mull.

GREAT EXPECTATIONS

My first obstacle was an earnest but naïve fixation on climbing munros (Scotland’s 282 hills over 3000ft) and ONLY munros. I did so with single-minded determination for the first few years. In so doing I completely overlooked the walking potential of rugged ‘lesser’ hills on the islands or the unique atmosphere and challenges of their wild, convoluted coastlines… two things Mull has in spades. But when that fixation happily abated, a second and unexpected obstacle took its place.

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MacKinnon’s Cave is situated on the Isle of Mull’s west coast near Gribun.  The area is dominated by sheer cliffs and very broken country that affords a great view of several important geological time periods.  MacKinnon’s Cave is also said to be the longest sea cave in the Hebrides, at around 500 feet in length.  A torch is therefore essential to explore the cave, and as the mouth of the cave is tidal you must consult the tide times before setting off and plan your visit on a low tide.

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Boat trip to the Treshnish Isles and Staffa

With Dave Sexton, RSPB Mull Officer

Stand on a high point and gaze out to sea off Mull’s west coast and you will see them. A chain of mysterious, glistening jewels in the Hebridean sea that will set your pulse racing. The sense of anticipation of the wildlife gems they might hold is palpable. From Staffa in the south, up to the Dutchman’s Cap, onwards to Lunga and Fladda and finally to Cairn na Burgh Beg in the north, the Treshnish Isles archipelago will lure you in.

Luckily for us all, they are not ‘forbidden islands’. We are blessed here on Mull and Iona with a variety of choices of ways to get to the Treshnish Isles and Staffa, with daily boat trips in season leaving from Ulva Ferry, Fionnphort, Iona and Tobermory. Skippers and crews who know these waters intimately will welcome you on board, provide a warming brew en route and set sail for these distant, enticing lands.

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Make the most of your journey alongside the Sound of Mull

Stretching along the Isle of Mull’s eastern shore, the Sound of Mull is the strip of water that divides the island from the west coast of mainland Britain. Visitors will cross it on either the Oban or Lochaline CalMac ferry. Naturally, many set straight off for their accommodation around the island, but there are lots of places to visit along the Sound on the way, and plenty lying within too! So take a bit of time to explore the Sound of Mull and all of its interesting sights en route with this guide.

Looking over Grasspoint at the southern end of the Sound of Mull

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A winter ascent of Ben More

As the highest point on the Isle of Mull, and Scotland’s only Munro that is accessible only by boat, a walk up Ben More is often on the ‘to do’ list for visitors to the island.

Looking across Loch na Keal and Eorsa at Ben More on Mull

At 966 meters in height, Ben More towers over the island’s other hills.  Not only do you get a stunning, 360-degree view, but you also get the acute sense of altitude that this sort of elevation creates. With no neighbouring mountains of comparable height, Ben More really does feel like the highest point around!

The simplest route to the summit starts on the shore of Loch na Keal at Dhiseig.  From here a marked path leads up the broad flank of the hill to the circular summit cairn.  Simple.  To experience our island Munro at its most dramatic though, arguably the best route is a circular traverse of Beinn Fhada to A’Chioch and then along the ridge to Ben More. This route involves some scrambling (see the map below).  Let’s take a look at this route as it was on a fine winter’s day!

Walking along the Bheinn Fhada ridge with Gribun and Ulva in the distance

Hiker walking through snow drifts with the north face of Ben More in the distance

Having parked the car off the road along the shore of Loch na Keal, we began the walk by following the burn (Abhainn na h-Uamha), which has a series of spectacular waterfalls along its course. Feeling lucky that we had chosen such a clear, crisp day, we then headed uphill to crest the ridge of Beinn Fhada. At this point the views are just incredible. Looking back you can see the curve of the Gribun cliffs, the islands of Ulva and Eorsa, Staffa, and the Treshnish Isles. Up ahead, Ben More and the ridge look really inviting.

Frozen lochan on Beinn Fhada with walker surveying the scene

Climbing A’Chioch with Glen Clachaig below and to the right

Winter sun blazing as a walker climbs the A’Chioch ridge on Mull

After a short sharp climb to the summit of Beinn Fhada (702m), with jelly babies providing the extra fuel we needed, we headed west and began the climb of A’Chioch (867m).  The views here are superb, and picking our way up towards the summit through snow drifts was great fun!  We were lucky that the winds weren’t strong at this point, so we were able to enjoy settled conditions and sunshine.

The final traverse over the ridge to Ben More was relatively straightforward, though the final section involves some scrambling. Just at the point where your legs are starting to ask for a rest, the ridge narrows to just a few meters wide and has significant drops on both sides, which help sharpen the senses!

Looking west over the Isle of Mull with the mainland mountains visible in the distance

Surveying the way ahead to the summit of Ben More

Starting to traverse the Ben More ridge

Looking back along the ridge to A’Chioch

Wind swirls snow into the air on Ben More

Beginning the descent

From the summit of Ben More we followed the line of cairns that descend the hill back towards Loch na Keal.  After the rugged drama of the east face of the hill, this side seems very rounded and gentle, and the walking easy.  The wind picked up at this point for us, blowing ice around and creating some spectacular conditions:

Ice and snow blows across the hill during the descent

Following the cairns with the Treshnish Isles in the distance

We finished the walk feeling battered but not broken. No matter which time of year or by which route you choose to climb Ben More, it is always a memorable experience and well worth the effort.

www.isleofmullcottages.com/isle-of-mull-walking.html

Ben More OS map route

Note: Hill walking has inherent risks and dangers.  Conditions change quickly and navigation can be difficult.  Always make sure you are well prepared for any conditions and have the correct level of experience for your chosen route.

The Isle of Mull and its neighbouring islands are rightly famous for their geology. These islands have a richness and complexity in their geological make-up that is quite remarkable, and features the grand phenomenon of columnar basalt. When the Survey officers were carrying out the geological survey of Mull and surrounding islands, in the early part of the 20th century, they quickly realised how complex an area it was that they were studying.

The rocks of Mull have played an enormous part in the advancement of the science of Igneous Petrology. Earth Scientists from all over the world come to study the amazing geology of this place. But you do not need to be a scientist to appreciate one of the truly remarkable geological wonders – the rock known as Columnar Basalt, which is on display in several places in these islands.

Most people will be familiar with pictures of Fingals Cave on Staffa or the Giant’s Causeway in Northern Ireland. These are both excellent examples of this strange rock formation which almost does not look ‘natural’.  The mainly six-sided columns have a symmetry which is fascinating. So what is columnar basalt and where can it be seen on Mull?

Basalt is a type of lava that is very common throughout the world. Look at pictures of Hawaii and you will see lava pouring into the sea and forming great clouds of steam. That is basalt. The volcanoes in Iceland that caused such disruption to air traffic a few years ago were mainly basaltic. In fact Iceland today is very like how Mull would have looked 60 million years ago!

Not all basalt lava forms columns however – much of it is massive and uniform, lacking the pillar-like structure. There is a lot of variation in the basalt lava seen on Mull and the other islands. Some of it is very crumbly, a lot of it contains white crystals of a group of minerals called zeolites, and sometimes it can appear reddish in colour. The columnar form, which is easily the most visually spectacular, can be seen in lots of locations on Mull. Here are five areas for you to see some impressive examples of it during a visit.

1. Staffa

The Island of Staffa is the prime location for seeing basalt columns. No other location really matches it for grandeur. Whether seen from the boat or from the shore, it looks spectacular. The name Staffa comes from Norse and means “Pillar Island”. Very well named! Staffa is easy to access on foot but requires a boat trip to get to it. Find out more about how you can visit Staffa here.

Basalt columns on Staffa

2. Ulva

Ulva is an island just to the west of Mull and is accessible from Ulva Ferry by a small, regular boat service. The columns are on the south coast of the island, approximately 45 minutes from the slipway. The walking is easy and the columns are well sign-posted.

Columnar basalt on Ulva

3. Macculloch’s Tree (The Fossil Tree)

The famous Fossil Tree lies at the very western extremity of the Ardmeanach peninsula. It involves a long walk over rough terrain and the descent of a ladder to reach the shore. The scenery is spectacular and basalt columns can be seen near the tree and on the shore leading up to it. This is wild country where the rewards for the effort are great scenery and spectacular coastal views. Beyond the headland of Rubha na h-Uamha (Point of the Cave, and well-named so), there is more columnar basalt to be seen. Great care is needed as it can only be easily accessed when the tide is out.

The Fossil Tree

4. Carsaig Arches

This is another difficult to reach location, with a lot of rough walking and a need for a steady gait and a good head for heights. The Arches are at Malcolm’s Point, west of Carsaig itself. One of them forms a sea-stack. The other is a cave. Both are spectacular.

Carsaig Arches

5. Ardtun

Ardtun, near Bunessan, is famous for another geological find – fossil leaves, dating back 60 million years. The leaves are found in between lava flows, some of which are beautifully columnar. This is dramatic coastal scenery with ravines, a sea stack, caves and other delights. Many of the columns are curved or even horizontal. The approach is over extremely boggy ground, straightforward to walk but very wet underfoot. Care is required at the gorge of Slochd nan Uruisg (the defile of the goblin) where the leaf beds and the basalt columns are best seen.

Columnar basalt at Ardtun

There is lots of further reading available on the subject, should you wish to find out more about Mull’s geology.  Mull in the Making by Ros Jones offers a great introduction.

Author: James Westland

All images copyright James Westland, 2016

If you’re intrigued by Mull’s magnificent landscapes, don’t miss our guide to visiting MacKinnon’s Cave.

If you’ve been to see the columnar basalt on Mull, what did you think?